The characteristic historical centre of Popoli is half an hour drive from Sulmona (Abruzzo) and it’s really worth a visit, because it still has the typical atmosphere of a Medieval town.
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Among the places not to be missed there are the remains of the medieval castle, the Church of San Francesco, the Church of Saints Lorenzo and Biagio, both founded in ancient times and which houses many local artists’ works, and the several historic buildings embellishing the streets of the town.
The Church of San Francesco
The Church of Santi Lorenzo e Biagio
Historic buildings
The Medieval castle of Cantelmo
The ancient village of Popoli is overlooked by the famous Cantelmo Castle, which can be spotted even from the highway. There are two ways to reach the ruins of the castle and they are suitable for both grown-ups and children.
The first route is the longest, it takes about an hour and a half: you’ll start from via Tiburtina Valeria, where a car parking area can be found. Then you’ll follow the red and white signs that indicate the whole 7-km long itinerary.
The second itinerary, that’s the one we chose, is easier and starts just from Piazza della Libertà in Popoli, where we didn’t have any problem finding a parking spot. It will take you about 45 minutes to reach the top of the Castle where the panorama will leave you speechless.
The Castle wasn’t built by the Cantelmo family, as the building is the typical result of the phenomena of encastellation that occurred in Medieval times. After the fall of the Roman Empire citizens had no protection, so the idea of a place that could provide shelter in the event of an enemy attack emerged.
The architecture is part of the enclosure-castle typology and it was built between 1000 and 1015 by bishop Tidolfo. Towards the end of the 15th century the castle has undergone remarkable transformations by the Cantelmo counts, lords from 1269 until the 17th century.
The fort was surrounded by a double system of city walls and by a moat. The plan of the fort was triangular, with the base side oriented towards the city. At the top of the triangle there was the original watchtower, which was the first component of the building.
Every castle has its own legend, so this is the story:
The tale of the White Lady begins on a gelid night in January 1676, when two knights, Monaldeschi and Petrossi, were heading from Capestrano to the castle of Popoli.
Seeing his companion was upset, Petrossi asked him what he was worried about and Monaldeschi replied he was thinking of the woman he was in love with Diana Gaetani d’Aragona, wife of the Duke of Popoli, Giuseppe II Cantelmo. Monaldeschi explained to Petrossi that his beloved Diana had been forced to marry the Duke, a man she could never love and who often caused her suffering.
After Petrossi heard these words, he suggested to kidnap the woman, offering so help to his friend. Monaldeschi instantly approved the the idea and accepted his help.
Thus the knights came to the castle and then they parted. In the meanwhile Donna Diana was in her room and when she heard whistles coming from outside at midnight, she quietly left the room and went down to the courtyard of the castle. She reached the surrounding wall, opened a small door and unexpectedly met Monaldeschi. The knight told his beloved lady he wanted to free her from the Duke, with the help of his friend.
Donna Diana accepted and they came up with a plan: upon receiving by a trusted man the ring he had given her when they first met, she had to leave the castle and run away. While the two lovers were saying goodbye to each other, a shot was suddenly heard from the bastion: they had been discovered by the Duke, who had the Knight imprisoned.
The Duke went then to his wife and told her Monaldeschi wouldn’t have been executed, as expected insteas and then he took leave.
At daybreak the Duke went to the room where the Knight was held captive and, together with two guards, brought him into another room. There, he placed two guns on a table. He then called the Duchess and told her she had to load only one of the two pistols: the loaded one should be given to the man she wanted to save and the unloaded one to the man who had to die.
Diana d’Aragona left the room with the guns and the Duke said the duel was planned for that night.
When the night came the two gentlemen met in a field behind the castle, while the Duchess was still in her room. Shortly after the Duchess came to them in a white dress and handed them the guns.
As soon as the two were pulling the trigger, she stepped in between them and she was struck by two bullets: one hit her heart and the other one her head.
This is how Diana Gaetani d’Aragona, Duchess of Popoli, died at the hands of two men: the one who married her even if he knew she didn’t love him and the man who madly loved her.
The ruins of the castle can be visited for free and, if you are lucky, you can see the White Lady dancing among the ruins!
The town also boasts the well-known thermal springs in De Contra, where you can do thermal hydrotherapy or just relax and restore to enjoy serenity and wellness. Popoli water is specifically recommended for the treatment of arthro-rheumatic and respiratory diseases. Mud baths, therapeutic baths and inhalation therapies can also be done. Web site http://www.termedipopoli.it/
Unfortunately, we couldn’t enjoy all of this due to lack of time.
In the end, if you still have time, don’t miss the beautiful cities of Sulmona and Celano!
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