“Carthago delenda est”, sentenced Marco Porcio Catone, a Roman politician, general and writer, and so did the Romans in 146 bC. By a twist of fate the Punic Carthage is much better preserved than the Augustan one, devastated first by the Vandals, then by the Byzantines and lastly by the Arabs in 689.
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Recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979, there’s not much left of this archaeological site, but surely enough to tell you that it’s a day trip you can’t miss. It’s about 16 km away from the city of Tunis, therefore you should take into account that a whole day will be spent there.
- Introduction
- The Saint Louis Cathedral
- The archaeological park of the Baths of Antoninus
- The town of Sidi Bou Said
- The medina
- The sūq
- The wonderful Bardo National Museum
- Conclusions
Introduction
The archaeological site includes several areas many kilometres one from each other. At the upper side of the site there are the ruins of a neighborhood with its streets, shops and Punic, rectangular houses from the III-II century bC. They were brought to light in 900, together with the cisterns to collect rainwater placed on the lower floor and a still clearly visible drainage system.
Halfway between the museum and the coastline there were two harbours unfortunately almost completely destroyed by now. From the panomaric terrace you can have a look at what used to be the Carthaginian acropolis in the Punic period, then replaced by a Roman urbs.
A myth tells of how Pygmalion of Tyre, Elissa’s brother, had his sister’s husband killed to get his riches.
Then Elissa left the city and after many long and troubled transfers she reached the Tunisian coasts, where she founded Carthage. Dido persuaded the local governor to grant her all the plots of land that could be reproduced on an oxhide. The queen shrewdly cut that skin into very narrow strips, so that she obtained all the needed territories to found the city of Carthage.
The name of today’s acropolis of Carthage is Byrsa (literally “oxhide”), echoing the trick of the Phoenician queen.
The Saint Louis Cathedral
The Saint Louis Cathedral is located on the peak of Byrsa hill. Built in 1890 by the will of Cardinal Lavigerie, it’s not a place of worship anymore since 1964. Today it still hosts classical music concerts and shows which, unfortunately, we were not lucky enough to go to.
The archaeological park of the Baths of Antoninus
It’s located between Byrsa and Tunis and it’s the largest and most spectacular among the Carthaginian sites.
You can enter the park from the Bordj Djedid hill, reaching a structure that can accommodate thousands of people per day. The Baths of Antoninus can be reached walking for a few minutes, after having crossed the ruins of some roads and houses from the Roman Carthage. The 30 metre column, standing out over the entire area with its heavy capital in plain sight, was one of the eight sandstone columns that supported a 1000 square metre frigidarium. It’s not hard to imagine the amazement of those who entered it for the first time, as it left even us with our mouth wide open for its considerable size.
The town of Sidi Bou Said
The town of Sidi Bou Said, well-known for being totally painted in white and blue.
A walk through its historic centre will let you admire the most characteristic buildings and lose yourself in the extraordinary atmosphere of this lively Tunisian city.
The medina
The oldest historic centre of the town is today enclosed by a ring road following the ancient path of the surrounding walls and built during the 19th century. Inside you’ll find a charming atmosphere created by narrow alleys, ancient buildings and markets full of life and colours.
The sūq
The sūq are the characteristic markets of the Arabic tradition and here each sector of the local handicraft has a specific, dedicated area.
You can find bottled and non-bottled perfumes and have the chance to buy ampoules of all shapes and sizes, fabrics embroidered by dyers, second-hand items and clothes, cotton batting, pottery, carpets. Each seller will tell you that their goods are the most ancient and valuable ones in the entire country. The spices, what we like the most, always come back home with us!
The wonderful Bardo National Museum
The wonderful Bardo National Museum, one of the most important archaeological museums in North Africa.
This large museum is the outcome of the collection of archaeological finds that took place in the 19th century. In its 34 rooms you’ll find pieces from all the historical eras in Tunis: from the prehistory to the Punic, Roman, Christian and Arabic-Islamic eras.
The main element of attraction in the museum is represented by the wonderful Roman mosaics dating back to the II and IV centuries. Rediscovered in the ancient houses and buildings that surrounded Tunis, today they are exhibited in large rooms of the museum. You’ll see with your eyes mythological scenes, deities, astonishing natural depictions, chariot racing and everyday life scenes that will show you how the Roman culture had caused the entire Mediterranean basin to become a single and cosmopolitan reality.
Besides the mosaics, at the Bardo National Museum you’ll find a collection of prehistoric art, a large bunch of very well-preserved classical statues, mosaics and frescoes from the Christianity of the Roman Empire and a collection of Arabic art including the masterpieces of Berber and Tunisian artisans.
The Bardo National Museum was subjected to a violent terrorist attack in March 2015. We had already visited it before that, when its appearance hadn’t been marked by this dramatic event yet.
Conclusions
In conclusion, these are the reasons why we think it is worth visiting Carthage:
- Ancient history: Carthage is one of the oldest cities in the world, with a rich history stretching back over 3,000 years. It was one of the most important cities of ancient Rome and a major commercial and cultural centre of the time.
- Archaeological sites: Carthage is famous for its well-preserved archaeological sites. You can explore impressive ruins such as the Byrsa quarter, the Roman amphitheatre, the Antonine baths and many other structures that offer an immersion in ancient history.
- Punic Carthage: you can discover the Punic era in Carthage by visiting the National Museum of Carthage, which houses a vast collection of Punic artefacts. This will give you an insight into the culture, traditions and way of life of the ancient Carthaginians.
- Beaches: Carthage also has beautiful beaches along its coastline. You can relax on the sand, swim in the sea and enjoy the Mediterranean climate.
- Culture and cuisine: the city has a vibrant culture and culinary scene. Explore the local markets, taste traditional dishes and immerse yourself in Tunisia's culinary culture.
These are just some of the reasons to visit Carthage. The city offers a fascinating mix of history, culture, natural beauty and Tunisian hospitality.
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